Creating a self-sustaining garden and mini-homestead is a rewarding journey, and one of the best additions you can make to your homestead is a chicken coop.
Chickens provide fresh eggs, natural pest control, and their waste makes excellent fertilizer for your garden. Plus, they’re a hit with kids, who enjoy helping care for them. In this guide, we’ll walk through how we built a simple, functional chicken coop, emphasizing efficiency and cost-effectiveness.
Planning and Design
Before diving into the build, it’s important to plan your chicken coop design. For us, functionality was the priority, so we didn’t focus too much on aesthetics. The design decisions were guided by what supplies were available on sale or clearance at places like Lowe’s and Home Depot. A simple, practical structure was all that was needed to house the chickens, provide them with space to roam, and facilitate easy maintenance.
One key decision was to elevate the coop, providing shade and shelter for the chickens when they free-range. Additionally, we designed the shelter portion to be separate from the floor. This allows for easy access and cleaning, as the entire shelter can be lifted off the base if maintenance becomes necessary.
Supplies We Used
Here’s a list of materials that we gathered for the build:
- 1 x 8′ treated 4×6 for legs (a 4×4 would work too, but the 4×6 was on sale for 70% off in the clearance section)
- 4 sheets of exterior plywood or sheathing for the walls
- 20 eight-foot 2x4s, most used for framing and support
- Trim (1×2 and 1×3), around 5 or 6 pieces each, used to trim corners, doors, and windows
- 3 bundles of shingles, any color available on sale
- 2 sheets of inexpensive sheathing for the roof
- 1 sheet of sheathing for the floor (we used thick exterior plywood for moisture resistance)
- 3 eight-foot-long 2x6s for the floor frame
- Fasteners: framing nails, finishing nails, 3-inch drywall screws, and 2-inch drywall screws
- Tools: Table saw, miter saw (though a circular saw can suffice for most cuts)
Step 1: Layout and Framing the Walls
We began by making the most efficient use of the plywood sheets. With each sheet measuring 4×8 feet, we framed the walls to be 4 feet tall and 8 feet long. The design includes two 4’x4′ square openings at each end of the coop for ventilation and ease of access. To keep the frame from racking while it was being built, we braced two opposing corners with short 2×4 sections.
Step 2: Building the Base and Roof
After assembling the basic frame, we turned our attention to the base. Since we wanted the coop elevated, we cut our 8-foot 4×6 treated lumber into four 2-foot sections and screwed them into each corner. We then built a simple rectangular 4’x8′ frame from 2x6s and screwed plywood down to create the base.
Next, we turned our attention to the roof. Using some scrap wood, we built 48-inch wide gambrel roof trusses from 2x4s, cutting them to the desired angles. The trusses were glued and nailed for added support. This style of roof gives the coop a classic barn look, but more importantly, it maximizes headroom inside the coop—ideal for maintenance tasks where you may need to stand.
Step 3: Installing the Sheathing
With the frame in place, it was time to cover the structure with sheathing. We used T111 exterior paneling, which we found at a great price in the cull lumber section. The panels typically run along the 8-foot length, but we needed them to run vertically to fit the coop design. We cut each panel in half to create 4×4 sections and rotated them to achieve the look we wanted.
The ends of the coop didn’t require this adjustment, but we saved the scraps for other parts of the build, such as the nesting boxes.
Step 4: Roof Sheathing and Nesting Box
Once the sheathing was applied, we moved on to the roof. We used leftover T111 to build a nesting box, measuring 6 feet in length, 16 inches in height, and 12 inches in depth. To integrate the nesting box, we cut out a section from one of the wall panels. We carefully measured and marked the rectangle before cutting it with a circular saw.
Next, we framed the nesting box with 2x4s and attached it securely to the wall studs. This step is essential for creating a safe, accessible area for the chickens to lay eggs.
Step 5: Installing the Roof and Ventilation
When covering the roof trusses, we had to account for the roof extending past the coop’s walls. If you want an overhang like we did, you’ll need to either make the coop slightly shorter than 8 feet or add extra sheathing to extend the roof.
Ventilation is crucial, as heat can build up quickly in the summer, and the ammonia from chicken waste can be harmful. We installed a ridge vent at the peak of the roof to allow gasses to escape, improving airflow and preventing overheating.
Step 6: Adding Drip Edge and Tar Paper
To keep water from seeping into the wood, we added aluminum drip edge around the exposed edges of the roof. This helps to direct water away from the wood and prevent damage over time. Once the drip edge was in place, we stapled tar paper to the roof for additional protection against moisture.
Step 7: Shingling the Roof
Shingling the roof is a simple but tedious task. We used a bundle of shingles, cutting them as needed to fit the small roof. Each row required two full shingles and one that needed to be trimmed, so we made sure to stagger the seams to prevent water from slipping through. The ridge was capped with single-tab shingles, saving the cut-off sections for the peak of the roof.
Step 8: Adding Doors and Paint
For practicality, we added several doors to the coop. A wide door for cleaning out bedding is essential, and we also included a small door for the chickens to enter and exit. We framed the main access door with 2x4s and covered it with the same sheathing we used for the walls.
We also added a half-door to cover the nesting boxes. The final touch was some creative flair: we stenciled a classic “Mail Pouch” design onto the sides of the coop using spray paint.
Step 9: Final Touches
To complete the build, we added a ramp for the chickens to access the coop. We used a 5/4 treated decking board for durability and nailed on some 1×2 treads to give the chickens a better grip. The ramp was attached with eye screws and cup hooks, ensuring it was secure yet easy to adjust.
Lastly, we installed a few perches using old tree branches and added bedding, such as pine shavings, to keep the chickens comfortable.
Conclusion
Building this chicken coop was a rewarding project. By keeping the design simple, using affordable materials, and focusing on practicality, we created a safe, functional home for our chickens. Now, we enjoy fresh eggs, natural fertilizer for the garden, and the satisfaction of a job well done. Our chickens are happy, and our mini-homestead is one step closer to being self-sustaining!
This plan is a contribution by [dpoore19]. Project Via Instructables – Get the PDF Instructions here.
Joseph Hudson has been raising chickens for over 15 years. In 2018, he completed the Agriculture & Natural Resources program at Mt. San Antonio College. He currently raises over 1400 chickens on his 7.5-hectare farm. He keeps sharing his experience on raising healthy and happy chickens on Chicken Scratch The Foundry.
