When my sister Susie asked me to build a chicken coop for her last spring, I was both excited and nervous. At the time, I had zero experience with chicken coop construction. Sure, I had basic construction skills, but nothing that would prepare me for a full-on chicken coop project.
Nevertheless, I was up for the challenge. Susie had a few essential guidelines:
- The coop had to be tall enough to allow her to stand inside for cleaning.
- It needed to house approximately 20 chickens.
- She wanted the coop to reflect a Quaker style.
With that in mind, I dove into research, pulling together design ideas, sizing guidelines, and helpful hints. The most consistent recommendation I found was four square feet of space per chicken, which seemed like a solid starting point.
Step 1: Understanding the Project
This would be my first major DIY project of this kind, and I quickly realized that I had a lot to learn. One of the first tools I discovered was the free version of SketchUp, a 3D modeling software. While I hadn’t used CAD in over 20 years, SketchUp turned out to be intuitive and surprisingly user-friendly.
After a few nights of trial and error, I created what I thought was a well-designed 80 square foot coop. Unfortunately, when I presented the design to Susie, I realized that it was far too large for what she had envisioned. The coop was meant to be more compact, so I got to work redesigning it with a pencil and ruler.
After a bit of back-and-forth, we agreed on a much smaller design – 32 square feet. It was a challenge to condense the plans, but in the end, the new design was sleek and functional, fitting perfectly within a 4×8-foot space.
Step 2: Laying the Foundation
The next step was to create a solid foundation for the coop. Since we were in a region with heavy rains and snow, I knew it was essential to raise the coop off the ground. Water runoff and snow melt could cause issues if the floor was directly on the ground. I built the frame using treated lumber, ensuring that everything was elevated using 4×4 posts. The 2×4 frame provided a stable foundation, and the 4×4 supports kept the floor off the ground. The floor itself was made from treated plywood, a ¾-inch thick sheet for durability.
Once the base was assembled, I placed it in the location where the coop would live and leveled the ground. Pro tip: Before securing the base permanently, it’s best to move it around while it’s still light enough to carry. This will save time and frustration later.
For extra protection against moisture, I glued down a cheap sheet of linoleum on the floor. It was easy to clean and helped keep the coop sanitary. Just a quick note: Use a disposable razor knife to trim linoleum – much easier than trying to deal with a regular utility knife.
Step 3: Framing and Roofing
Framing was next on the agenda. I opted for 2×4 lumber for the walls, but in hindsight, I would recommend 2x3s or even 2x2s to save a little on material costs. The framing process was straightforward, though, and I built the structure with 16-inch centers to align with the 4×8 panels I was using for the siding. The roof was framed using the same 2×4 lumber, and I added a small eave to keep rainwater from splashing up onto the walls.
I also had to factor in the nest boxes, which needed to fit within the 4×8 footprint. The nest boxes were positioned along one side of the coop, taking up about a foot of depth, but extending along the full 8-foot length of the structure. This maximized the number of hens each box could accommodate.
For the roof, I chose plywood and shingles – an affordable option that I’m familiar with. While corrugated metal or plastic might have been a good alternative for some, I opted for traditional materials because they were within my skill set and budget. After installing the rafters and securing the sheathing, I added the drip edge and shingles for weatherproofing.
Step 4: Windows and Siding
Next, I installed the windows and siding. I framed spaces for windows on both long sides of the coop to provide natural light and ventilation. Before installing the windows, I made sure to dry-fit them, making adjustments as needed to ensure everything lined up properly.
For the siding, I used basic plywood, and I made sure to add extra flashing around the nest box to keep moisture from getting inside. The nest box roof had to be waterproofed, so I turned to a flexible rubber spray I found lying around – it turned out to be a great solution for the hinges. After finishing the exterior, I installed vinyl windows and added trim around the edges to complete the look.
Step 5: Installing Doors and Ramp
With the frame, windows, and roof in place, it was time to add the doors. I used the plywood I had cut out earlier to create the main door, trimming it with 1×4 boards to prevent the edges from warping over time. The door was hung and fitted with a latch for security.
On the opposite side of the coop, I installed a smaller chicken door, complete with a ramp for the hens to enter and exit. This door was a simple slider, mounted on PVC tubing, and it had a hook and eye to hold it open or closed as needed.
Step 6: Securing the Coop and Adding Power
Given the cold climate and potential predators, I took extra precautions in securing the coop. I built wire panels around the base of the coop, burying the mesh about a foot into the ground to prevent digging animals from getting in.
Additionally, since winters can be harsh, I ran electricity to the coop. I installed an outdoor power inlet, connected it to a light fixture, and added a couple of outlets on the rafters. These outlets could power lights or electric heaters if necessary during particularly cold spells. Note: Always be cautious when working with electricity. If you’re not experienced, have someone knowledgeable help ensure everything is installed safely.
Step 7: Collecting Eggs
One of the final touches was the nest box access. I designed the roof of the nest box to lift up on hinges, making egg collection easy and efficient. I installed a simple cord system inside the coop to prevent being accidentally locked inside – a feature that’s already proven handy during windy days.
Step 8: The Finished Coop
After a few weeks of hard work, the coop was complete, and I couldn’t have been more proud. The chickens took to it right away, with Susie reporting that they absolutely loved the new space. The project came in at around $1,000 for materials, which was a great deal considering the custom design and functionality.
Step 9: Lessons Learned
As with any project, there are always lessons to be learned. A few things I would do differently next time:
- Nest Box Height: I learned that chickens prefer their nests to be higher off the ground. Consider placing the nest box just below the window for more comfort.
- Eaves: I recommend installing physical barriers to keep chickens from roosting in the eaves. They tend to fill those spaces with droppings, which can damage the wood over time.
- Ventilation: If your coop is in a sunny area, you may need to install a peak vent to let hot air escape, especially during summer months. In colder climates, make sure the vent can be closed off during winter.
Despite these minor tweaks, Susie and the chickens are happy with the final product, and I’m glad I took on this DIY challenge. It was a great learning experience, and I’m already thinking about the next project!
This plan is a contribution by [HorusCok]. Project Via Instructables – Get the PDF Instructions here.
Joseph Hudson has been raising chickens for over 15 years. In 2018, he completed the Agriculture & Natural Resources program at Mt. San Antonio College. He currently raises over 1400 chickens on his 7.5-hectare farm. He keeps sharing his experience on raising healthy and happy chickens on Chicken Scratch The Foundry.
